From The Sea

Red mullet, bream, dentex — whatever is in the basin. Scaled, gutted, oiled, salted and turned once. Oregano salt and a half-lemon, nothing else on the plate.

Four minutes over vine cuttings, smoked paprika and lemon. The cheapest thing on this page and regularly the best.

Two days on the line, then hard char on the fire, served on Schinoussa fava with capers off our wall. If you order one thing from the sea, it is usually this.

Theoharis squid, scored and cooked fast. The dish we send out when someone says they do not really like seafood.

Buried in coarse salt and egg white, baked hard, cracked open at the table with lemon-leaf oil poured over as it opens. Forty minutes from order, so tell us early.

Filled with rice and herbs from the garden, baked slowly. The dish that survives a table which cannot agree.

From Captain Vasilis’ pots, cooked into the sauce rather than laid on top. Priced by weight, two people minimum — ask before you fall in love with it.

Made from whatever the board could not sell, which is the only respectful way to end a day of whole fish. Thursdays and Sundays, and it runs out.

Whatever came in fresh enough to go raw, usually bream or dentex. Citrus, oil, salt, a little wild fennel. Nikos cuts it to order and will not cut it after 22:00.

Sour orange rather than lime, red onion, coriander only if you say yes. Fifteen minutes in the acid and no more, so the fish is still fish.

In tomato season only. Three ingredients, and it lives or dies on the tomato.

August and September, when the leaves off the middle terrace are at their most fragrant.