Her grandmother Garyfallia’s recipe, folded by feel and not by clock, with orange-blossom syrup poured at the pass so it is still warm when it reaches you. The most ordered thing on the deck after the octopus.
Mastic ice cream, on its own€11
Chios mastic, churned here, served in a cold metal cup with nothing on it.
Spoon sweets, three€11
Bitter orange, sour cherry, and whatever fruit the terraces over-produced that month, with thick yoghurt. What Greek households actually serve, which is why it is here.
Seasonal
Fig leaf custard€13
The leaves off the middle terrace steeped in cream overnight, which makes it taste of coconut and green almond without either being in it. August and September only.
Warm figs, thyme honey, walnut€13
Same four trees, halved and warmed on the wood fire. The dessert for people who said they did not want dessert.
To finish
Greek cheeses, four islands€18
Always four, always islands: Tinos, Naxos, Sifnos and whichever of Folegandros or Amorgos we could get. Bread, a spoon sweet, no crackers.
Aged Santorini vinsanto€9 / glass
The short sweet bench, plus one or two oxidative whites that are more interesting with the cheese than with the karydopita.
Raki, with the billno charge
Poured for the table when the plates go. It has been that way for fifteen seasons and it is not a loyalty scheme.